This was a small little custom fence project. I had to remove some old fence panels prior to construction of the fence. I will be making a more detailed post on how to build a fence but this one deserves a place on the website. I managed to snap some decent photos along the way.
If you are a visual learner like I am, you may be able to figure out some of the details just by looking at some of these photos.
A trip to the big box store is always a fun part for me. It’s bittersweet because I love jumping right into the projects but I dislike having to load the cart and load & unload the truck. Wear a good set of gloves to avoid splinters and messed up hands.
This project required removing the ugly nasty fence panels prior to construction.
I always begin by setting my 4×4 posts. I use the traditional pressure-treated 4″x4″x8′ posts and one bag of concrete on every post.
I didn’t take full step-by-step photos on this particular build but, if you study the photos I will explain.
I set the posts in the ground at 2-1/2′ deep and I add concrete to the base of each post. I fill the hole halfway with water and add half a bag of concrete. I level the post with a 4′ level on both sides and get it level. Next, I add a little more water then empty the bag of concrete and let the post rest for an hour prior to working with it.
Once set, I begin adding the 2×4 rails. I add 3 per section and always try to make sure the fence is symmetrical on each side.
As mentioned previously, I didn’t take progress shots of the picket installation process. I use the thicker 6″ pickets that are commonly found at your big box stores. The trick to making things look great are running a string for the top picket line.
I make a wooden spacer block that is approximately 4″ thick to use as the board-over-board-spacer. I make sure to level each picket prior to attachment and I NEVER use nails. I always spend a little extra money and use 3″ deck screws to attach the 2×4 rails to the posts and I use 2.5″ deck screws to attach the pickets to the rails. I add 6 screws per picket.
After all of the pickets are installed. I add a 1×6 and two 1×4 pieces of trim at the top to simulate a crown molding look. I also add a fresh 1×6 at the bottom to simulate a baseboard. This finished off the fence nicely and helps to keep it straight over time.
I make the gates by using a little metal frame kit you can find at Home Depot. It is called Adjust-a-Gate found here. You can pick up a kit for $50 and it will make a world of difference when it comes to longevity of your gate and reduction of sagging. I love these kits.
You still need to build the gate in the same way you built the fence. Use 2×4 rails and use the board on board methodology.
I will make a much longer post regarding the small steps that get you to the finished product very soon.